Mulberry double faced coat sewing course

Join me on a journey of sartorial mastery with this exclusive Mulberry Coat Sewing Course. Elevate your crafting skills as you recreate this timeless wardrobe essential that seamlessly blends style and comfort. Immerse yourself in the art of sewing an oversized silhouette, featuring a meticulously crafted exaggerated notched lapel, discreet side seam slip pockets, a back vent, and a self belt that not only secures the closure but also elegantly cinches the relaxed silhouette.

This masterclass delves into the intricacies of constructing the Mulberry coat using double-faced material, ensuring a luxurious and refined finish. With lined sleeves, you’ll effortlessly slip into the coat, experiencing the epitome of both comfort and style. Join me in this immersive sewing experience and unleash your creativity as you bring this iconic Mulberry coat to life, making it a cherished piece in your wardrobe for years to come.

Technical details:

  • Size range is from XXS to XXL (please see the size chart attached), graded in Alpha sizing
  • Length is about 48”/122cm long at center back
  • Dropped shoulders
  • Sleeve length is approximately 32”/81cm, measured from the nape of the center back, over the shoulder, to the sleeve hem
  • Bust ease is about 13.5”/34cm
  • Hip ease is about 8”/20cm
  • There is no shaping at the waist
  • Sleeves are lined
  • Generously sized in-seam slip pockets
  • Technical sketches are shown in the shop section under each tier

Course outline

This course will run for 4 weeks starting February 3rd with the following schedule and outline:

Live Zoom sessions will be held on February 3rd, 10th, 17th, and 24th from 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm EST. These sessions will be recorded and available for review for three months after our start date. Additionally, we will use the Slack platform, where you’ll have access to the pattern, supplementary ‘how-to’ videos, and engage in discussions related to this project. Feel free to post your questions in the group environment or contact me directly through direct messaging, easily searchable within the platform.

Week 1:

  • Pattern overview (or pattern preparation if working with an outside pattern)
  • Making a full muslin and checking proportions
  • Purchasing fabric samples
  • Making a quick test with fabric samples
  • Ordering self fabric, thread, as well as lining and fusible tape (or cutting your own tape)
 

Week 2:

  • Continuing work on the muslin
  • Making any adjustments to the pattern
  • Receiving fabric
  • Preparing fabric for cutting
  • Cutting all pieces
  • Marking pieces for opening seams
  • Starting work on the belt for practice

 

Week 3:

  • Final check with self fabric
  • Optionally basting all pieces together (hand or machine)
  • Making any necessary final adjustments
  • Continuing to prepare all seams
  • Covering techniques for inseam pockets, possibly other pockets such as patch and single welt (for the “bring your own” pattern option)
  • Lining and fusible tape are ready to use

 

Week 4:

  • Starting to assemble your coat
  • Finishing pockets
  • Setting lining into the sleeve
  • At this point, you are set to finish your coat at your own pace

Cost

Tier 1 Supporter (covering basic costs of development and production): $99

  • Mulberry double faced coat layered PDF pattern, available in 3 print sizes: print-at-home US letter/A4, and 2 large formats in US Copyshop and A0
  • Cutter’s Must
  • All construction techniques covered and demonstrated on Slack platform (there are no PDF instructions!)
  •  
  • Slack group with personal and group messaging, working 1-on-1 in a group environment
  • Group Zoom sessions in two time zones on Saturday or Sunday (most likely Saturday, times to be determined)
  • optional add on: 30 minute 1-on-1 zoom session for $30

 

Tier 2 Sustainer (covering everything under Supporter plus extra towards overhead and future growth): $160

  • All Tier 1 features
  • Bring your own pattern
  • Group analysis of the chosen pattern and suggested steps to make it double-faced friendly
  • One 30-minute 1-on-1 Zoom session
  • optional add on: 30 minute 1-on-1 zoom session for $30

* If you participated in the testing of the Harrison dress or Franklin t-shirt, please contact me directly before purchasing this course 

List of materials

Muslin (toile) cloth for a full mockup of the coat:

  • 4 yards/3.7 meters of 45”/114cm wide fabric
  • Or 3.25 yards/3 meters of 58-60″/147-152cm wide fabric
  • Ideally mimics the final fabric; however, regular muslin is acceptable

 

Main (Self) Fabric – Double Cloth/Double Faced (Wool, Cashmere, or Blend Without Stretch):

  • 3 to 3.25 yards/2.75 to 3 meters of 58”/147cm cuttable wide fabric. Note: this coat is measuring about 47.5”/120cm long at the center back. If you are tall or would like this coat in a longer length, add double the amount of difference to the yardage/meters
  • Heavy/thick for a single layer design with good drape
  • Must be bonded and separable/splittable (see attached picture)
  • Yardage assumes no pattern matching for solid or non-patterned designs

 

Lining:

  • 1.25 to 1.5 yards/114 to 137cm of 45”/114cm wide lining for sleeves, pockets, and bias tape
  • Ideal choice is Bemberg lining for longevity; slippery fabric without stretch can also be used

 

Fusible:

  • 1/4 to 3/8”/6 to 9mm wide pre-made fusible tape or non-stretch light fusible, cut into strips/“tape”
  • Use black for darker fabrics and white for lighter ones

 

Notions:

  • Matching quality thread for self fabric and lining
  • Wax for thread (optional)
  • Thimble (optional)
  • Contrast thread for basting and seam preparation

 

Tools:

  • sewing machine needles no. 90–100 for the self (main) fabric and no. 70–80 for the lining fabric
  • Hand sewing needles (such as #7 sharps)
  • Chalk for marking patterns before cutting and marking details
  • Optional: heavier thread for thread loops
  • Small scissors/clippers for seam splitting
  • Regular scissors for cutting
  • Ironing equipment
  • Presser/clapper (optional)
  • Paper or tissue paper for cutting lining and making fusible “tape”

Size chart for Mulberry coat

Double faced/double cloth fabric resources

Note: This type of fabric is called either double-faced or double cloth when being sold, but many fabric shops do not indicate if this fabric can be split. Please contact shop owners before ordering yardage, or better yet, get a couple of samples before ordering. Always keep in mind this is a one-layer coat, so the weight of the fabric should be substantial (about 450-500 grams and up).

UNITED STATES:

MOOD FABRICS (New York, Los Angeles, Miami)  https://www.moodfabrics.com/

Mood Fabrics carry a lot of high-quality closeouts from high-end designers in wool, wool blend, or cashmere, but most of these are not marked online to indicate if they are splittable. I’ve done a little legwork for those of you based in the US, and you can choose a number from the color card I’ve created for this course that I’m covering on Instagram.

PRIME FABRICS (online shop) https://www.primefabrics.com/

BRITEX FABRICS (San Francisco) https://britexfabrics.com/

A FABRIC PLACE (Baltimore) https://afabricplace.com/

B&J FABRICS (New York) https://www.bandjfabrics.com/

CANADA:

SULTAN’S FINE FABRICS (Toronto) https://www.sultansfinefabrics.com

SIMPLIFI FABRIC https://www.simplififabric.com/

UK:

MISAN RETAIL (London) https://www.misan.co.uk/

THE NEW CRAFT HOUSE (London) https://thenewcrafthouse.com/

JOEL & SON FABRICS (London) https://www.joelandsonfabrics.com/

BELGIUM:

THE FABRIC SALES  (online shop) https://thefabricsales.com/

STRAGIER https://www.stragier.com/fr

FRANCE:

GENERALDIFF TISSUS (Paris) https://www.generaldiff.com/

ITALY/EU:

This extensive list was put together by Beatrice from @bea_sewinsta, and since we source some of the best fabrics from Italy, I’m sure you can find some of the best selections in one of these shops.

PANINI TESSUTI https://www.tessutietendaggipanini.it/

Good offer of broad variety of fabrics and a coat section. Good prices. They also have a lot of poly blends so read carefully composition, also sometimes pictures (colors) are not so accurate.

ANTONIETTA TESSUTI https://www.antoniettatessuti.com/

Stunning cashmere and wool fabrics, very expensive but worth it.

ATELIER VICOLO 6 https://www.ateliervicolon6.it/

Lovely selection of deadstock fabrics. The offer is not so wide but if you are lucky enough you can find little treasures! The seller is also a designer and collaborates with Tauko magazine.

SUPERCUT https://supercut.it/en/

Curated selection of deadstock and branded fabrics like atelier brunette and see you at six.

I TESSUTI DEL RICCIO https://itessutidelriccio.com

Great for knits (jersey, fleece, sweats)

ATELIER BRUNETTE https://atelierbrunette.com/en/

The most luxurious viscose, French style. They have seasonal collections, so offer is limited to prints and color of the season.

METER METER https://www.metermeter.dk

Broad variety of quality natural fabrics, mostly knits, viscose, great tencel blends. Pricey.

COUSETTE https://www.cousette.com/

Broad variety of fabrics, french style.

Physical shops:

TESSUTI FABIANI https://tessutifabiani.com/

Milan area: very high quality fabrics, mostly wool and silk. They also have a stall at local markets, the most equipped is on Saturdays at via Fauché (Milan). Very good prices.

BACCI TESSUTI http://www.baccitessuti.it/

Florence, high quality and broad variety of offer (also cashmere wool, coat wool). Personnel is very qualified and wishful to help. They also ship (not sure if internationally), I placed order by WhatsApp, but better go in person.