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Double Faced Coatmaking Course: Mulberry & Vestry Coats

Learn to sew a luxury double-faced coat with either the Mulberry coat (robe-style, belted, long) or the Vestry coat (shorter, shawl collar, relaxed fit). Both designs are versatile, timeless, and designed to last for years.

This course walks you through step-by-step construction of double-faced garments, with every stage demonstrated. You’ll learn how to work with this unique fabric, achieve clean finishes inside and out, and understand how professional techniques elevate a handmade coat.

  • Mulberry coat: a classic robe-style coat with lined sleeves for easy wearing, oversized silhouette, and practical in-seam pockets.

  • Vestry coat: a shorter, double-breasted coat with a dramatic shawl collar, wide sleeves, and minimalist slit pockets.

Each option gives you the chance to build skills while creating a coat you’ll actually wear — polished, functional, and made to last.

Technical details for Mulberry coat:

  • Size range is from XXS to XXL (please see the size chart attached), graded in Alpha sizing
  • Length is about 48”/122cm long at center back
  • Dropped shoulders
  • Sleeve length is approximately 32”/81cm, measured from the nape of the center back, over the shoulder, to the sleeve hem
  • Bust ease is about 13.5”/34cm
  • Hip ease is about 8”/20cm
  • There is no shaping at the waist
  • Sleeves are lined
  • Generously sized in-seam slip pockets
  • Technical sketches are shown in the shop section

 

Technical details for Vestry coat:

  • Size range is from XXS to XXL (please see the size chart attached), graded in Alpha sizing
  • Length is about 33″/85cm long at center back
  • Three piece sleeve, raglan in the front, kimono style in the back
  • Sleeve length is approximately 34 1/4”/87cm, measured from the nape of the center back, over the shoulder, to the sleeve hem
  • Bust ease is about 15”/38cm
  • Hip ease is about 13.5”/34cm
  • There is no shaping at the waist
  • Generously sized minimalist slit pockets
  • Technical sketches are shown in the shop section

Course schedule

This course meets five times on Sundays via Zoom at 12:00 PM EST. Dates are: September 20, 27, October 18, 25 and November 1. All sessions are recorded so you can rewatch anytime. It is not necessary to be present during our Zoom sessions!

Between sessions, you’ll have access to a private Discord channel for ongoing support. There you’ll find the pattern files, supplementary how-to videos, and a space to ask questions. You can join group discussions or message me directly for one-on-one guidance.

Our sessions will be broken down to roughly four modules:

Module 1:

  • Patterns overview 
  • Making a full muslin and checking proportions
  • Purchasing fabric samples
  • Making a quick test with fabric samples
  • Ordering self fabric, thread, as well as lining and edge reinforcement (fusible tape or bias organza strips) 

Module 2:

  • Continuing your work on the muslin
  • Making any adjustments to the pattern
  • Receiving fabric
  • Preparing fabric for cutting
  • Cutting all pieces
  • Marking pieces for opening seams
  • Starting work on the belt for practice

Module 3:

  • Final check with self fabric
  • Optionally basting all pieces together (hand or machine)
  • Making any necessary final adjustments
  • Continuing to prepare all seams
  • Covering techniques for inseam pockets, possibly other pockets such as patch and welt pocket (for the “bring your own” pattern option)
  • Lining and fusible tape are ready to use

Module 4:

  • Starting to assemble your coat
  • Finishing pockets
  • Setting lining into the sleeve
  • At this point, you are set to finish your coat at your own pace

Cost & Structure

Course Fee: $200

What’s Included:

  • 5 live Zoom classes – Sundays at 12:00 PM EST on the following dates: February 22 and March 1, 8, 15 and 22.
  • Each session is about 60 to 75 minutes long and recorded for later viewing
  • Pattern downloads included:
    • Mulberry coat (long, robe-style with lined sleeves)
    • Vestry coat (shorter, shawl collar style). 
      Both patterns come as layered PDFs in 3 print formats (US Letter/A4, US Copyshop, and A0) plus Cutter’s Must and fabric layout markers
  • Step-by-step construction demonstrations available through Discord & YouTube (note: there are no written PDF instructions)
  • Access to a private Discord group for ongoing support, group discussions, and one-on-one feedback
 
PURCHASE HERE

List of materials

MULBERRY COAT:

Muslin (toile) for Mulberry coat mockup

  • 4 yards / 3.7 meters of 45” / 114 cm wide fabric
  • or 3.25 yards / 3 meters of 58–60” / 147–152 cm wide fabric
  • Ideally similar in weight/drape to your final fabric; regular muslin is acceptable

Main Fabric (Self) for Mulberry coat – Double Cloth / Double-Faced (Wool, Cashmere, or blend without stretch)

  • 3–3.25 yards / 2.75–3 meters of 58” / 147 cm cuttable width
  • Coat length: ~47.5” / 120 cm at center back
    • If you are tall or prefer a longer length, add double the amount of difference to your yardage/meters
  • Heavy/thick fabric suitable for a single-layer design with good drape
  • Weight range: 450–700 g (works well based on past groups)
  • Fabric must be bonded and splittable (see picture example)
  • Yardage estimate assumes solid or non-patterned fabric (no matching required)

Lining for Mulberry coat

  • 1.25–1.5 yards / 114–137 cm of 45” / 114 cm wide lining (for sleeves, pockets, and bias tape)
  • Best choice: Bemberg rayon lining for durability
  • Other slippery, non-stretch linings are also suitable

 

VESTRY COAT:

Muslin (toile) for Vestry coat mockup:

  • 4 yards / 3.7 meters of 45” / 114 cm wide fabric
  • or 3 yards / 2.7 meters of 58–60” / 147–152 cm wide fabric
  • Ideally similar in weight/drape to your final fabric; regular muslin is acceptable

Main Fabric (Self) for Vestry coat – Double Cloth / Double-Faced (Wool, Cashmere, or blend without stretch):

  • 2.7–3 yards / 2.5–2.7 meters of 58” / 147 cm cuttable width
  • Heavy/thick fabric suitable for a single-layer design with good drape
  • Weight range: 450–700 g (works well based on past groups)
  • Fabric must be bonded and splittable (see picture example)
  • Yardage estimate assumes solid or non-patterned fabric (no matching required)

Lining for Vestry coat:

  • 1 yard / 91 cm of lining (for pockets and bias tape)
  • Best choice: Bemberg rayon lining for durability
  • Other slippery, non-stretch linings are also suitable

 

BOTH COATS:

Fusible:

  • 1/4” to 5/16” (7mm to 9mm) wide pre-made fusible tape or non-stretch light fusible, cut into strips/“tape”
  • Use black fusible tape for darker fabrics and white for lighter ones
  • Alternatively, use silk organza strips cut on bias in place of fusible tape (this techniques is used in the videos)

Notions:

  • Matching quality thread for self fabric and lining
  • Wax for thread (optional)
  • Thimble (optional)
  • Contrast thread for basting and seam preparation

Tools:

  • sewing machine needles no. 90–100 for the self (main) fabric and no. 70–80 for the lining fabric
  • Hand sewing needles (such as #7 sharp or #8 crewel)
  • Basting thread
  • Chalk for marking patterns before cutting and marking details
  • Optional: heavier thread in matching color for thread loops
  • Small scissors/clippers for seam splitting
  • Regular scissors for cutting
  • Ironing equipment
  • Presser/clapper (optional)
  • Paper or tissue paper for cutting lining and making fusible “tape”

Size chart for Mulberry & Vestry coats

Double faced/double cloth fabric resources

Note: This type of fabric is called either double-faced or double cloth when being sold, but many fabric shops do not indicate if this fabric can be split. Please contact shop owners before ordering yardage, or better yet, get a couple of samples before ordering. Always keep in mind this is a one-layer coat, so the weight of the fabric should be substantial (about 450-500 grams and up).

UNITED STATES:

MOOD FABRICS (New York, Los Angeles, Miami)  https://www.moodfabrics.com/

Mood Fabrics carry a lot of high-quality closeouts from high-end designers in wool, wool blend, or cashmere, but most of these are not marked online to indicate if they are splittable. I’ve worked with Trinity from Mood in Los Angeles, and she would be the best person to call and check which double faced fabrics are suitable for this project.  

PRIME FABRICS (online shop) https://www.primefabrics.com/

BRITEX FABRICS (San Francisco) https://britexfabrics.com/

A FABRIC PLACE (Baltimore) https://afabricplace.com/

B&J FABRICS (New York) https://www.bandjfabrics.com/

CANADA:

SULTAN’S FINE FABRICS (Toronto) https://www.sultansfinefabrics.com

SIMPLIFI FABRIC https://www.simplififabric.com/

UK:

MISAN RETAIL (London) https://www.misan.co.uk/

THE NEW CRAFT HOUSE (London) https://thenewcrafthouse.com/

JOEL & SON FABRICS (London) https://www.joelandsonfabrics.com/

BELGIUM:

THE FABRIC SALES  (online shop) https://thefabricsales.com/

STRAGIER https://www.stragier.com/fr

FRANCE:

GENERALDIFF TISSUS (Paris) https://www.generaldiff.com/

ITALY/EU:

This extensive list was put together by Beatrice from @bea_sewinsta, and since we source some of the best fabrics from Italy, I’m sure you can find some of the best selections in one of these shops. When shopping on Italian sites, everything labeled as “cappotto double” is splittable. 

PANINI TESSUTI https://www.tessutietendaggipanini.it/

Good offer of broad variety of fabrics and a coat section. Good prices. They also have a lot of poly blends so read carefully composition, also sometimes pictures (colors) are not so accurate.

ANTONIETTA TESSUTI https://www.antoniettatessuti.com/

Stunning cashmere and wool fabrics, very expensive but worth it.

ATELIER VICOLO 6 https://www.ateliervicolon6.it/

Lovely selection of deadstock fabrics. The offer is not so wide but if you are lucky enough you can find little treasures! The seller is also a designer and collaborates with Tauko magazine.

SUPERCUT https://supercut.it/en/

Curated selection of deadstock and branded fabrics like atelier brunette and see you at six.

I TESSUTI DEL RICCIO https://itessutidelriccio.com

Great for knits (jersey, fleece, sweats)

ATELIER BRUNETTE https://atelierbrunette.com/en/

The most luxurious viscose, French style. They have seasonal collections, so offer is limited to prints and color of the season.

METER METER https://www.metermeter.dk

Broad variety of quality natural fabrics, mostly knits, viscose, great tencel blends. Pricey.

COUSETTE https://www.cousette.com/

Broad variety of fabrics, french style.

TESSUTI  MAZZARINI  https://tessutiestoffe.com/

Lots of double faced options, colors and qualities. 

Physical shops:

TESSUTI FABIANI https://tessutifabiani.com/

Milan area: very high quality fabrics, mostly wool and silk. They also have a stall at local markets, the most equipped is on Saturdays at via Fauché (Milan). Very good prices.

BACCI TESSUTI http://www.baccitessuti.it/

Florence, high quality and broad variety of offer (also cashmere wool, coat wool). Personnel is very qualified and wishful to help. They also ship (not sure if internationally)