Mastering Design Finishes and Construction Methods for Button-Up Shirts

Build an invaluable library of design finishes and construction methods for any button-up shirt, which you can refer to time and time again. This course is designed for sewing connoisseurs who cherish construction details and appreciate impeccable finishes on their shirts.

Dive deep into the world of design details with an expert guide who excels in exploring and researching various construction finishes in the luxury ready-to-wear industry. In this course, you will learn about some of the instructor’s favorite finishes, including unique methods of attaching collars and cuffs, constructing a distinctive sleeve placket (not the traditional one), and other exclusive side and bottom finishes that will set your creations apart.

Embrace the “quiet luxury” of construction—the subtle, refined details that only true enthusiasts recognize. This is the essence of the “when you know, you know” philosophy.

Please note: This is not a “how to make a button-up shirt” course. Instead, it is a comprehensive collection of shirting details and construction techniques that you can apply to a shirt pattern of your choice. While the objective is not to finish a shirt during this course, every step will be meticulously covered by the end of our classes.

Prerequisites: This is not a beginner’s course. Some sewing experience is preferred, as certain methods require accuracy and familiarity with stitching straight and curved lines, easing in fabric, and working with an iron.

What Will Be Covered

Front Plackets Styles and Hem Finishes

  • Simple Placket Without Stitching and Bottom Hem Finish
  • Simple Placket with Stitching and Bottom Hem Finish
  • Hidden Placket Cut in One Piece with Body and Bottom Hem Finish
  • Separate Hidden Placket and Bottom Hem Finish
  • Double Piping Hidden Placket and Bottom Hem Finish
  • Mitered Corner Simple Placket with Hand Stitched Finish

 

Sleeve Plackets and Cuff Styles

  • Traditional 2-piece sleeve placket
  • The Row Sleeve Placket Construction: Personal favorite sleeve placket
  • The Row Cuff with Rounded Corners
  • Saint Laurent Hidden Sleeve Placket with Mitered Cuff
  • Balenciaga Sleeve Double Cuff
  • Different Methods of Attaching a Cuff to Sleeve

 

Collar Styles

  • Rounded Collar with Piping
  • Saint Laurent Collar and Stand
  • Balenciaga Two-Toned Collar and Stand with Corner Stays (Menswear Construction)
  • Collar and Stand with Hard Fusible

 

Front Pocket Styles and Methods

  • Classic Angular Shaped Pocket
  • Rounded Pocket Top Applied
  • Rounded Pocket Sewn from the Inside
  • Burberry Pocket with a Gusset and Pocket Flap

 

Side Openings Styles

  • Curved Hem with French Seam Finish at the Side
  • Curved Hem with Flat Felled Side Seam and Machine Applied Gusset
  • Curved Hem with Hand Stitched Hem and Gusset and Flat Felled Side Seam
  • Side Slit Opening with French Seam Finish at the Side
  • Side Slit Opening with Flat Felled Finish at Sides
  • Exaggerated Curved Hem Side Opening with Facings

 

Flat Felled Seams

  • Flat Felled Seams on a Curve (Sleeve Cap/Armscye Setting)
  • Flat Felled Seams with and without Ban Roll

 

By the end of this course, you will have mastered a variety of sophisticated techniques that will transform your button-up shirts into unique pieces of craftsmanship, showcasing your attention to detail and commitment to high-quality finishes.

Materials and Tools

To make the most of this course, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Light and/or Medium Weight Cotton or Muslin: These fabrics don’t need to be continuous yardage, making this a great opportunity to use up scraps. You will need approximately 2 – 2.5 yards in total.
  • Ban Rol Tape: Prepared for 1/4” hems.
  • Different Weight Fusible: Classic hard fusible for menswear cuffs and collars, and medium weight fusible for regular construction.
  • Thread: Matching or contrasting, depending on your design preference.
  • Universal Weight Machine Needle: Suitable for sewing light to medium weight fabrics.
  • Sewing Machine: Ensure your machine has buttonhole capability.
  • Hard Paper/Thin Carton/Oaktag: For creating templates.
  • Chalk Markers or Heat Erasable Pen: For marking your fabric.
  • Hand Sewing Needles: For hand-finishing techniques.


Having these materials and tools ready will ensure you can fully participate in and benefit from the course, allowing you to explore and master the various techniques and finishes covered.

Class Structure, Dates, and Price

Class Structure The course material will be covered over five sessions, held on Saturdays. Each session will focus on at least one construction method, which we will review and assemble during the class. As homework, you will practice a second or third method on your own, which we will discuss in the following session. This structure ensures you get hands-on experience and personalized feedback on each technique.

Dates

  • Session 1: Saturday, July 20th
  • Session 2: Saturday, July 27th
  • Session 3: Saturday, August 3rd
  • Session 4: Saturday, August 10th
  • Session 5: Saturday, August 17th


Each session will be held via Zoom from 9 AM to 12 PM (PST). The majority of the material will be covered during the first 2 hours. The instructor will remain online and available for the full 3 hours for those who wish to continue working or have additional questions.

Price

Total Course Fee: $150

This price includes all five sessions, feedback, patterns for the samples we’re working on, and access to “how-to” videos on YouTube. Zoom sessions will not be recorded, as we will be working in a lab-like environment.

A supplementary Slack platform is used to connect with like-minded makers, share your results, and ask questions. You will also be able to download patterns for the samples we’ll be working on before the class, as well as receive links to “how-to” videos on YouTube that will be added before each Saturday class.

While we’re not concentrating on finishing a shirt, as a bonus, the new Delancey shirt pattern in sizes 00-18 is also included. This pattern will not include instructions, only cutter’s musts and markers.

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Meet Your Instructor

Eira Adeli is a seasoned professional with over 14 years of experience in the fashion industry as a pattern maker and product developer. Known for her meticulous eye and unwavering commitment to detail, she has honed her skills in both professional settings and personal sewing projects.

Throughout her career, she has amassed a wealth of knowledge and a treasure trove of techniques that elevate the art of shirt-making. Her passion for precision and excellence shines through in every stitch, and she is eager to share her favorite methods and insights with the sewing community.

In this course, you will benefit from her extensive experience and deep understanding of luxury ready-to-wear construction. She brings a unique blend of industry expertise and personal creativity, offering you an unparalleled opportunity to learn from a true lover of the craft.